Aidan and DDU above Harris Lake- Routeburn Track, South Island New Zealand

Brisbane International Terminal

I’d scheduled to attend the annual Australasian Emergency Medicine conference in Queenstown, NZ. Stephanie couldn’t make it for logistical reasons, so Aidan, our 14 yo Huck Finn, happily played hooky from school to spend 10 days road-tripping with Dad in SINZ. Experiential learning…It turned out to be a fantastic father-son bonding experience.

Christmas koalas

Aidan in-country, Auckland, NZ

Charming NZ weather

Past  readers will remember how excellent I thought hiking the Milford Track (in January 2014) with Ultimate Hikes was.This was the perfect opportunity to schedule the Routeburn for three days prior to the conference. At 35 km over three days, including the entire second day above timberline, it’s considered one of the finest of the nine Great Walks in NZ, and is said to be ” 2/3 as long and twice as hard” as the Milford. We shall see dear readers…

Aidan, downtown Queenstown, on Lake Wakatipu

Lake Wakatipu evening

Hike morning, 0530, from the hostel

We got into QT late in the evening and missed the hike orientation. Up at 0500 to make the bus down to Te Anau, a 2 1/2 hour ride. It was a bit early, pre-prime season in mid-November, the trails open only for a few weeks. Less crowded, but the risk being less settled weather. It was looking a bit iffy, with reports of snow and rain showers, especially in the big mountains to the south…right where we were heading…!

Showtime doc!

Private bus, nice ride…

Clearing skies…?

Being early season, we only had 24 hikers along, making the trip pretty relaxed and open feeling. In high season, the 40 hiker limit is filled daily, months in advance. Ultimate Hikes was as remembered; friendly, encouraging and very smooth in all respects. I’ll admit to being a bit apprehensive, contemplating hiking over 25 rugged miles with a light pack in cold wet weather…a bit too much to be considered “fun” ? I’m sure everyone was silently thinking the same thoughts as we headed south into the mountains…

Wild and isolated Lake Te Anau

Above Lake Te Anau, under a light ceiling

Starting out in the rain

Suddenly, the bus pulls into the trail head; in a blur of activity you become energized by the wet, cool breeze, and you enter the primeval forest…the hike begins.

Ancient New Zealand beeches

The sound of water is everywhere in this green, captivating world. Water music surrounds you and other concerns recede…You focus only on the trail ahead…Three days of separation from the outside world…. How perfect…. Parts of the Southwest New Zealand ( Fiordland) World Heritage area get over 7 meters of rainfall a year, more than the Amazon basin. It’s very wet….plan for that and you’re good to go.

Guide Sam, morning tea, Lake Howden shelter

Hear the water music…

Earland Falls, very cold and very wet

Earland Falls, thunderous and bracingly cold in full flood, at 250 feet, is a highlight of the first day’s gradual ascent above Lake Howden. By now, we are warming up and finding the rhythm of the trail.

Regenerating Ribbonwood Trees in an avalanche zone, aka “The Orchard”

Aidan nearing timberline

After a steep down section we arrive at Lake MacKenzie Lodge, our stop for the night. The ceiling is lifting, holding out hope for clear summits tomorrow, but it’s been 12 km, 5-6 hours in the cold and wet. Call me a wimp if you must, but a hot shower and a bunk will be much appreciated tonight!

NZ eye filet with au jus, roast potatoes and asparagus…yes, please…

Lord of the Rings forest

Lake MacKenzie evening

After a somewhat restless sleep we awake to a steady drizzle. This will be the hardest, most exposed day. Through hikers coming over the ridge are saying they walked through three days of clouds, and saw no peaks…beautiful, spiritual, but not ideal perhaps…

Lake MacKenzie morning

The boys, feeling pretty good

Guide Izzy, leading off the morning

Exposed trail climbing out of Lake MacKenzie

The lodge far below

American newlyweds Ian and Joanne at Ocean Peak Corner

When we get over the ridge at Ocean Peak Corner, a stinging westerly wind, 20-30 km/hr, is spitting sleet into our eyes and burning exposed skin…It’s a bit of a shock that abates once we tuck down onto the slightly more sheltered Hollyford Face. This is a long, exposed section above timberline that offers wild, stunning vistas as the ceiling lifts higher. Exciting and enlivening…!

Guide Kate, rugged up and loving the elements

And then a rainbow suddenly materializes far below us, arching over the Hollyford River valley…!

Glaciated peaks across the Hollyford Valley….mystical stuff…

The Hollyford Face

The trail ahead to Harris Saddle

Aidan and Guide Brydie, a great team

Aidan and Dadude, on the Hollyford Face

Mount Cook Lily

Harris Saddle shelters

Mount Xinicus

Feeling confident and psyched, Harris Saddle shelter

Moving out, weather moving in…

The trail above Lake Harris

A great bonding experience with my buddy Aidan

Lake Harris under rapidly changeable weather

Lifetime memories…

The way down, into the Routeburn Valley

The second day was a wild, challenging hike with sharp winds, rain, sleet and snow flurries. The rapidly changing weather, with sudden sun shafts illuminating the ragged peaks overhead added an unpredictable, exciting edge to the adventure. Much more dynamic and energizing than placid, clear blue skies. It was Aidan’s first long hike above timberline- he was amazed by the austere environment and the high energy among the group…The start of a lifelong love affair with the high country I hope…Truly an ultimate hike!

High country, sub-alpine bowl

Nothing I’d rather be doing…

The origin of the Routeburn

Hiking down into the Routeburn Valley

Our bunk for the night- sure beats a wet tent!

Night two was spent at the stunning Routeburn Falls Lodge, situated right below the falls, at timberline, and overlooking the famed Routeburn Valley. After a wild 12 km, 6 hour hike across the raw, high open ridges, it was a pleasure to contemplate a hot shower, warm bed…and, oh yes, NZ rack of lamb…with a central Otago Pinot Noir of course…

Looking down valley from the lodge

Warm kale soup

NZ rack of lamb…yes, please…!

Orange creamy torte-thingy…yup…

Izzy and Aidan experiencing calorie-loading bliss…

And even a hot water bottle for the sheets…really…!

Because the trip wasn’t chock-full, Ultimate Hikes was kind enough to give Aidan and me a private room. That really helps if you’re stuck with a snoring stranger… makes for a horrendous night, trust me…!  Another reason to love Ultimate Hikes folks, they are simply the best…!

Cowboys on Everest, Dan Pryor…wherever you are…

The whole kit-bag

The Routeburn Valley

After 40 years of backcountry adventures, of varying levels of danger/ excitement, you might think I’d feel guilty about “selling out” on such a posh hike. Well, perhaps aging knees and wisdom have banished the purist in me- not in the least! Besides the aforementioned hot shower, bunk and tasty prepared meals and libations, the primary benefit of such an arrangement is the need to carry only 10-15 lbs of kit, allowing one to turn a potentially grueling ordeal into a mere skip down the lane…and after all, you still have to trek the miles, all by yourself…Highly, highly recommended…worth every penny…value for money…etc etc etc..:-)

Swing bridge!

A real sense of accomplishment, Routeburn flats, day three

Izzy and Aidan in the Beech forests

The Routeburn

The old guy still got it, well, sort of….!

The final swing bridge

Mission accomplished

To make a special day even more memorable, Ultimate Hikes then takes the whole team to the famous Glenorchy tavern on the end of Lake Wakatipu for a summing up, certificate ceremony and a final farewell. It’s been an amazing three day journey together. Challenges met and overcome, large and small; lifetime memories made.

Catherine, Jeremy, Ric, Geoff and Rob- Cheers mates, well done..!

Our fantastic guides: Kate, Brydie, Sam and Izzy

Cheers mate, good on ya…!

Keepin’ it local, folks…

Downtown Glenorchy

Lake Wakatipu from the bus

Back to reality, and cellphones, Queenstown

So, three days of tech-free, primordial bliss in the forests and on the ridges of Fiordland NP, South Island NZ. I had a few doubts about creaky knees and a gimpy L hip, that felt better after the hike than before! Aidan had never been on a multi-day hike, and was blown away; but may have to lower his culinary standards for the next several decades of road-trips with friends. For those readers contemplating a trip to SINZ, just  “yes…”  Please do yourself a favor and go, though plan to get a bit damp. For those with a limber step, a stout heart and a few extra coins in pocket; seriously consider enlisting Ultimate Hikes to assist in logistics, permitting and meal planning. It truly is a most excellent group of people, and a smooth operator. Both of my trips with UH has easily surpassed my expectations, and made what could have been a daunting trip to organize a mere skip down the lane. I have no financial interest in giving them DDU’s highest recommendation as an adventure traveler’s best friend and resource on South Island New Zealand.

DDU and Aidan high above Queenstown, NZ

Celebrating a great accomplishment…

Until my next post from the vast southern hemisphere….

Happy trails, Doc Down Under and Aidan Nolan, Brisbane, Australia

Paradise found…? Well, it’s pretty darn close…

Pre-trip photo

 Well, it was never even supposed to happen. Claire wanted to go somewhere exotic to celebrate her “Sweet 16th”. Turns out there was a great Emergency Medicine conference in Fiji right on the big day, and I already had vacation scheduled. BINGO! Suddenly, we were on our way to Fiji, just over 3 hours East from Brisbane, Australia. Our first trip into the South Pacific, this was a “girl’s trip”, meaning deluxe with lots of food and lounging about. The boys stayed home in Brisbane with friends, another miracle of sorts…

First trip on our new Aussie passports

Three hours east and you are in a different world

Girl’s trip!!

A rice-stuffed pineapple….yum!

 The conference was held at Denarau Island, a multi-resort area just south of Nadi. Purists may sniff; it is after all, not the “real” Fiji. But as a quick getaway, it provides a very relaxing and even magical tropical escape. You first notice the warmth and relaxed attitude of the all-Fijiian staff. “Bula” means welcome…

Radisson Blu lobby, all open air

 You wake up to soft warm breezes and gently lapping waves, definitely full tropical. Over breakfast, Fijiian musicians serenade with their distinctly high, lulling harmonies accompanied by acoustic guitars and ukuleles. A great way to greet the morning…!

Setting the mood…play on brothers…..

Moses, the skipper

 Right off, we were booked for an all day snorkel and cat cruise with Coral Cats. They were #1 on Trip Advisor, so we booked ahead, anticipating a great day…. Stephanie stayed ashore to avoid severe sun exposure and perhaps a touch of sea-sickness. Perfect weather and we headed out to the Mamanucca Islands a few hours sail West of Nadi…

Chillin’ and grillin’

Fresh local fruit platter

After the first snorkel

 The water was warm and calm, with good visibility-50-60 feet. Decent coral with little bleaching, lots of colorful fish, though nothing big…no sharks, rays etc…Beautiful experience…Then it was into Musket Cove for a Fiji BBQ lunch, a nice break and stretch.

Frangipani blossoms

 The multiple smaller islands and shallow, turquoise waters felt somewhat Caribbean, but with a distinct Polynesian/ Melanesian flavor….the South Pacific indeed!

Musket Cove resort

Cate, now 11 yo

Claire, 16 yo tomorrow…

Island mind

Our ride for the day…

Tropical lunch

Loving Fiji!!

Dave with his incredible palm creations

Setting the troll for the run home

Anticipation…

 After lunch, the second snorkel was even better. A long sloping coral bank, covered with soft coral forests, and some Staghorns, Shelves etc. Clouds of fishes of all sizes and descriptions, including larger Parrot and Triggerfish in the deeper reaches where the corals dropped out of site. Superb snorkeling experience…

The run home to Port Denarau

 The entire day was just so well-paced and handled. The crew, company, food, scenery, snorkeling and overall vibe was just one of gentle relaxation, exotic land and seascapes, with a bit of adventure to top it all off. Coral Cats, #1 for good reason and even better than hoped. Highly recommended if in Nadi/ DI.

All great days must come to an end…

Back ashore for an evening dip…

Linking up with Stephanie for sunset

Fiji Bitter sunset, it really doesn’t get any better folks….:-)…!

Traditional Fijiian dance and song under the stars

 The resorts each have free nightly activities and are focused on traditional Fijiian culture. You can witness multiple performances, including full dress traditional “Meke” ceremonies that are only seen in more remote villages on special occasions. Cynics may feel it’s staged, not “authentic”. Whatever…I found it added a lot to a specific sense of place and enriched each evening.

No doubt, given more time and planning, much of the “real” Fiji can be found in the hinterlands, and especially on multi-day sails into the over 330 islands that make up the country. Perhaps the subject of a future DDU: a 14 day sail and snorkel/ dive trip through the Yasawa group? Sigh….one can always dream….

Relaxation, a vital component of any Fiji trip…

Wedding Chapel

South Seas dreamscape

 A unique feature of DI is that six high-end resorts are contiguous and share a mile or so of uninterrupted beachfront facing West and North. You can walk freely among all the beautiful gardens, pools and water features and use any restaurants etc that strike your fancy. There are no roads, cars or distractions between the lawns and the shore. At night the entire beachfront is subtly lit by gas tiki torches under swaying coconut palms and tropical flowers. Restaurants are open air, with some tables out on the sand…The overall  experience is one of soft, green escape. A fantasy perhaps, but a pleasantly persuasive one.

I’m in….

Claire’s Sweet 16 Birthday party guests

A beautiful young lady on her big night

Proud Papa Nolan

 Then it was time for Claire’s sweet 16 birthday party. It all fell together like it was fated. We managed, with a little intrigue,  to score a special birthday cake and have it delivered tableside, complete with Fijiian singing! A sudden tropical squall added to the excitement and soon gave way to a warm, humid evening under southern stars…

Celebrating Stephanie’s big accomplishment too…!

Aussie’s best Mom!

Sister’s birthday mocktails

Happy Sweet 16, sweetheart Claire

The miracle cake

Lifetime memories with our wonderful young ladies

Another gorgeous day draws to a close…

Cate gone troppo

A traditional Meke ceremony

Girls dancing like a local…

Another day in paradise

 Oh, and the EM conference was great too! High level discussions, good content, nice snacks and afternoons off. Perfect balance!

A ginger flower

Port Denarau

A (very) friendly local…

Returning to port

An acquired taste love….

Last Fijiian evening, at least for a while…

Final family sunset in Fiji

 Suddenly, like all dreams, it was over…the sun rose on our last morning in Fiji. Up at 0500, a quick final look, a few snaps and into the waiting cab for Nadi airport and a return to reality… But it was a wonderful dream, one we hope to revisit someday…

Hotel lobby goodbye

Nadi Airport, small but modern

So, that’s the story of our adventures in the South Seas thus far. While paradise might not truly exist in this life, a reasonable approximation would be Fiji. As an entree, Denarau Island was perfect, hopefully whetting the appetite for future adventures further off the beaten track, in true Doc Down Under fashion. Thanks for joining again on the journey. I hope it was marginally educational as well as entertaining.

Until who knows when, I remain your faithful DDU. Still manning his duty station, now some years later, somewhere out in the South Pacific. Your kind comments and support always appreciated!

Vanaka, DDU

Nolan clan, Christchurch, NZ airport, January 2016

Koala Christmas bears, Brisbane

Everyone wanted to see New Zealand for a Christmas present. So, we planned an 18 night road trip covering both islands for January 2016. Trouble is, that’s high summer season down here; camper vans, cabins etc all sold out almost everywhere, six months in advance. A tip for anyone planning this trip: you can almost always get a spot if all you’re looking for is an unpowered tent space; you also have tons of flexibility, even at the last minute. So, we decided to do it old school; 7 people, two mountain tents, one Hiace Toyota van….New Zealand….. It was epic, and wonderful, if a bit cramped….!

An exciting day!

In country, Aotearoa

Summer in NZ, “It’s a bit chilly…”

 We started out east of Auckland on the Coromandel peninsula, a beautiful area with forested mountain ranges above wild beaches and bluffs. Not heavily touristed; it’s more of a Kiwi family escape. Well worth checking out.

Cathedral Cove

Cathedral Cove is the most famous landmark on this coastline, and pretty impressive, but there are many other fascinating features in this part of the world.

Pohutukawa tree, flowering at Christmas-time, a Kiwi icon

New Zealand rainforest on hike to Cathedral Cove

Coromandel coastline

Camp duty Cate…

 We stayed a few nights at Tiarua/ Pauanui. Beautiful small towns on a complex marine estuary. A small volcanic spire affords fantastic views of the surrounding landscapes.

 

Owen, our baby boy…

Coromandel landscape

Beautiful, but not a ‘stralian beach, mate…

Lake Rotorua, a flooded volcano crater

Our entire setup…keeping it simple folks

Rotorua is famous for hot springs, geysers, mineral springs and all things geothermal. Hopefully you will camp well upwind…

Tongariro National Park

Daughters with Mt Doom

We then headed up to the high and wild Tongariro plateau. We initially planned to hike the stunning Tongariro alpine crossing; an 18 km trail up between two of the three volcanoes here. Brisk winds gusting to 50 km/ hr forced us to choose a lower, less exposed 14 km hike to some isolated lakes, and a perfect waterfall.

On the trail to Mt Doom with Stephanie! I carry the ring of power…

Lower Tama Lake

Mt Doom, aka Ngauruhoe, LOTR was filmed here

It’s hard to capture the vast, wind-swept austerity of this place on film. In my 40 years of serious hiking, I have to say, it’s an entirely unique and
intriguing environment. Well worth a detour and several days of exploring.

Claire and Mt. Ruapehu

Daddy, Daughtie and Doom…

Kiwi Love

A frigid shower after a long hike

Taranaki Falls

Feel the spray!

Mt Ruapehu, active as recently as 1995

And now, a brief digression…due to a glitch with a camera SD card, I lost several hundred photos; from Tongariro twilight, thru Wellington (cool, arty place), the epic crossing of Cook Strait to the South Island by ferry under blue skies and calm seas (lucky, as they cancel the ferries when seas are running over 8 meters (24 ft)! Also Marlborough wine country (bucolic…) and hiking in the sublime Abel Tasman National Park. Further losses, Westport, Pancake Rocks and the Franz Joseph and Fox glaciers… the entire west coast of SI NZ; stormy, moody and mystical. No place to live perhaps , but certainly a wonderful area to explore…Alas, locked in the confines of my memory with no photos to share….For those planning on that well-worn trip; yes, just plan on crap weather and head out…you’ll be well rewarded….. The photos pick back up climbing Haast Pass heading east and inland towards hip little Wanaka and Queenstown beyond.

Aidan fishing NZ

Ditto Dad, I lost a nice trout right here…

Over Haast Pass, heading for Wanaka

Lake Wanaka

A well earned hot tub, Wanaka

Alpenglow, Lake Wanaka

Wanaka morning

My #1 son and good buddy, Luke

Next morning , up early, around the lake for a 50 km drive to the end of the gravel road in Mt Aspiring NP. The landscape here on the Central Otago plateau is the polar opposite of the wet, wild and windy west coast, only 30 miles away….much higher, drier and ranchy. Very reminiscent of western Montana-love it!!

Swing Bridge start, a NZ icon

Our goal, hiking the Rob Roy Valley Track, a stunning, varied 12 km trek that’s considered one of the best day hikes in NZ, and that’s saying a lot! We headed out under perfect blue skies, and the hike did not disappoint…in fact, better than advertised.

Gonna be a great day

After crossing the impressive swing bridge, the trail heads steadily up the valley through beech and fern-clad forest…Hobbit land comes to life…! Occasional openings in the forest canopy reveal massive glaciated peaks, shimmering in the intense sunlight, high above. Building plenty of anticipation to encourage you to keep moving ever higher…

The trail ends above stunted timberline in a huge glacial cirque. Plenty of open space to stretch out and have lunch with friends while being serenaded by the music of a hundred waterfalls, rivulets and rills. Truly a magical experience.

Hiking the NZ lowlands generally means sheep as companions

The road back to Wanaka

A SINZ Rainbow…

Bogan Aussie party people….stop….!

Ma and Pa atop Mt Iron. Right over downtown Wanaka

Central Otago from Mt Iron

Lake Wanaka

My excellent young men, Luke and Aidan

Cardrona Pass, the high road to Queenstown

Lake Wakatipu foreshore, Queenstown

That feels…weird…!

Right outside of Queenstown is the birthplace of bungy jumping, since 1988, at Kawarau Bridge. The adrenaline pumping visitor’s center is a mandatory stop. Though on this particular day, our teens deferred from making their leap of faith. Maybe next time…?

Uncertainty reigns….

Kawarau Gorge

“I don’t think so Dad…”

The next victim…

Relieved to be back on the road…!

The Church of the Good Shepard, c 1935, Tekapo

The sheepdog monument, Tekapo

Moving further north, the Central Otago plateau gives way to a vast inland grazing area known as the Mackenzie country. This region was settled by settlers from Scotland and is comprised of large, remote sheep stations.

Claire and Luke with Mt John behind

Next morning dawned bright and dry. We hiked up Mt John for panoramic views of the surrounding Mackenzie country and to check out the telescopes operated by the University of Canterbury, due to the purity of the night skies in this region.

Best way to spend a day…

Lake Tekapo, ice cold, even in summer…!

Two hours north brings you to Christchurch and our destination. The city is recovering nicely from the devastating earthquakes of 2011. What were depressing vacant lots in the CBD, during my visit in January 2014, are now filled with foundations and rebar forms. Signs of life everywhere, but still a long way to go. Someone mentioned that the rebuilding of the Christchurch CBD was now the largest construction project in the southern hemisphere…I believe it!

Avon River boathouse

Ongoing restoration of a heritage building

The Botanic Garden sustained little damage, and is magnificent in full summer bloom in January down here.

A Christmas display

Maori Greenstone (Pounamu) implements

Equally impressive, and miraculously undamaged is the superb Canterbury Museum, on the Botanical Gardens grounds. One of the world’s best regional museums, and free; it has extensive collections of Maori artifacts, Antarctic exploration and New Zealand bird life dioramas. Really exotic and highly recommended.

Antarctic exploration diorama, I believe they ate the dogs…

KIWIS!

So, finally, it was time for the end-of trip celebration. We saw and learned an amazing amount traveling rough together over 18-20 days. New Zealand is very different than Australia in almost every way, and we all took home memories that will last a lifetime.

Last bedtime in NZ!

Packing it up for the airport

Stephanie, the one who pulled it all together!

Even after five months, the memories or our NZ trip are very fresh. So many common experiences shared; we all want to go back again soon. In fact, I just booked a hike on the Routeburn Track with Aidan for November 2016…Long story, but an epic DDU in waiting…If you are ever planning on traveling this way down under, I tell everyone that Australia and New Zealand, though neighbors joined by common heritage and language, are otherwise entirely different places. My advice is not to miss either, but to plan on spending adequate time, 2-3 weeks in each country, as a minimum….you could easily spend a lifetime.
Thanks again for traveling along with us; family, friends and fans of DDU wherever you are. Sorry for the drought…just busy, busy, busy living life down under with five kids…. Wishing you the best in your adventures, still reporting from my duty post in Brisbane.
Fondly, Doc Down Under.

Back in Brisbane…it’s so hot here…!